Weekly Dog Training Tip

Past Tips: June '09 - July '09 - Aug. '09 - Sept. '09 - Oct. '09 - Nov. '09 - Dec. '09 - Jan. '10 - Feb. '10

The Importance of Treats During Walks (March 3rd)

As a dog trainer, I want everyone to be successful in training their dogs to do what they would like to them to do.  Many times I see people walking their dogs and asking their dogs to perform a difficult behavior without having any treats present and their dogs completely ignore them.  I thought this week I would focus on the importance of bringing treats during dog walks.

When you are walking your dog, it can be one of the most difficult times to get your dog to listen.  There are so many distractions: other dogs, people, smells, sounds, constant stimuli, etc.  Their senses are heightened and they have fun using them.  If you are expecting to your dog to perform a harder or difficult behavior asking them to perform it outside without having treats is generally not the answer.

Remember that when we are training anything new we want to be on a continual reward based schedule.  This means that your dog is receiving consistent / reliable treats every time he performs this behavior.  When the behavior becomes learned then we shift to random rewards. Also remember, the treats serve as a motivator for your dog or a so called "pay check for your dog going to work."

The same applies to new or distraction environments.  You may need to shift back to a continual reinforcement schedule as the dog has to re-learn this behavior / command in a new environment.  Once your dog performs this behavior reliably in the new environment my advise is to shift to random rewards rather than discontinuing the treats all together.  Shifting to random rewards is the strongest reinforcement schedule.  Stopping the treats all together can cause the behavior to digress.

Having your clicker with you is also beneficial during walks.  Remember the clicker speeds the learning process.  It also is a distinct sound and reminds the dog that he has performed correct behaviors and can take his mind off of the distractions. Once you shift to random rewards, you can stop using the clicker.

As a trainer, what I am wanting to see is success with your dog.  I am hoping from this tip you have a greater understanding that treats are not just for the classroom or in your home but an overall training tool to train anything new.

Previous Weekly Tips

The Power of Breath (Feb 24th)

Let's take a whole new spin on dog training.  I have been noticing more and more about how our emotions and energy affect how our dogs respond to us.  Our emotions affect how fast your dog will learn!  Wow...fascinating.  Most of you may know this already as it is not the first time I have mentioned it.  I am going to say that I believe 80% of the dog training results you create with your dog are a result of emitting confident and relaxed emotions.  Think about it when you are stressed, fearful, angry, sad, etc. your dog feels this and he is probably more focused on your emotions then what you are training him to do.

This past week I have had amazing experiences with breath and dog training.  What I am referring to is taking the time to ground yourself by breathing through your belly.  As you are doing this be in a place of allowing.  You can see white light traveling through your body and being emitted into the ground.  The point is that you are in the moment and are channeling your energy to become more balanced.

Here are three amazing scenarios that I witness this week with breath work and dogs:

1.) Last Wed I had my students breath at the beginning of class.  The dogs immediately became quiet afterwards.  To be clear they were barking before we did this and it wasn't minor.  It was a huge shift!

2.) I was at my boyfriend's house and our dogs love to play rough.  We took sometime in the morning to breath and meditate.  The dogs were drastically calmer and played less that morning.  They were more grounded.

3.) My dog is still moving through his fear of cars.  Today I breathed when I walked him.  I also slowed my walking pace.  He was much calmer as the cars went by.  Of course I was doing training.  The truth is disregarding the training he was calmer.

Take some time and breath before you train and during your training.  Watch the difference!

Reading Dog Behavior Week 4 (Feb 17th)

This is the last week on the series of "Reading Dog Behavior."  I hope it has been helpful for you.  This week I wanted to target other stress signs that your dog may show when he is out of alignment.  These stress signs can be a result of fear (defensive behavior), aggression (offensive behavior), excitement (over stimulation) or just over aroused in general.  If you see multiple stress signs make sure you do something to calm your dog.  It could be something holistic, checking in with your emotions or hiring Four Legged Scholars for training advice.

More Signs of Stress:

Moving quickly or pacing

Sweaty paws

Rapid or shallow breathing

Shedding excessively

Clicking teeth

Lethargic

Not wanting to eat or gulping food quickly

Dry Panting

Another tip that is helpful for you to know is that your dog will respond to stress in one of the following ways:

1.)   Fool Around (Displaying Calming Signals to Relieve Stress)

2.)   Fight (Bit or Attack)

3.)   Flight (Run Away)

4.)   Freeze (Totally Shut Down and Do Nothing)

5.)   Faint (Pass Out)

Reading Dog Behavior Week 3 (Feb 10th)

This week I am going to focus on calming signals.  Calming signals are signs that your dog demonstrates when he starting to get stressed and is wanting to calm himself down.  If you see many calming signals then you know that your dog is pretty stressed.  Remember that any dog that is extremely stressed can bit or fight.

These signs can be shown during play and also during training sessions.  If you see them during a training session it is best to end the training the session on a positive note.  Some of these signals can mean different things in other contexts.

Here is a list of calming signals:

• Eye Blinking
• Freezing
• Slow Movement
• Lip Licking
• Backing Away
• Yawning
• Sneezing
• Stretching
• Shaking
• Sniffing
• Paw Lifting
• Scratching as if for no reason

Have fun watching your dog and seeing these signals this week!

Reading Dog Behavior Week 2 (Feb 3)

Last week I gave some tips on determining if your dog is feeling fear (defensive behavior).  This week I am going to focus on offensive behavior.  Offensive behavior is when the dog wants to move forward and is generally more likely to want to attack immediately.  Generally when a dog is offensive we call him / her aggressive.

Today I am going to focus on offensive behavior. Begin to notice the signs below:

• The body is stiff rather than fluid.  The muscles are tense.
• The weight is shifted forwards.  So the dog may be thinking of moving toward the stimulus.
• The mouth is closed verses being open and relaxed.  The mouth could also be open and the lips are pulled forward.  The lips look like a "C" shape and you mainly see the front teeth.
• The ears are pulled forward on the head (erect).
• He / She may be hesitant to eat or he / she takes the treat with a very tense mouth.
• The tail is held upward from the neutral position.  It may be wagging very quickly.  When it is held high and wagging fast this is called a "flagged tail" (The dog is extremely aroused if this occurring).
• The movement is generally fast and jerky.  There is not fluid movement.
• The respiratory rate is fast.
• Direct eye contact is toward the stimulus.  Generally the eyes are big and round.
• The dog is silent or has a lower pitched growl or bark.
  

Reading Dog Behavior (Jan 27th)

Realizing what a learning curve it was for me to become really good at reading behavior, I thought it would be beneficial to write consecutive tips on how to read your dog.  Throughout the next few e-mails you will learn what your dog looks like when aroused verses being relaxed.

Today I am going to focus on fearful behavior. Begin to notice the signs below:

• The body stiff rather fluid.  The muscles are tense.
• The weight is shifted backwards.  So the dog may be thinking of backing away.
• The mouth is closed verses being open and relaxed.  The mouth could also be open and the lips are pulled backward showing many teeth.
• The ears are drawn back on the head.
• He / She may be hesitant to eat or he / she takes the treat with a very tense mouth.
• The tail is downward from the neutral position.  It may be tucked between the back legs.
• The movement is still (frozen) or jerky.  There is not fluid movement.
• The respiratory rate is fast.  You see intense panting.
  

The Commitment of Training (Jan 22nd)

It can be easy to procrastinate with dog training.  It also can be easy to create dog training to be a priority.  It is choice really.  Many life coaches that I know state "Commit and then the how shows up."  This rings true to me.  If you are truely committed and it is a full body "yes" then throw away all of the hows!  The hows will just show up after you commit.

For those of you who are searching for a "how."  Below is a tip on how to incorporate dog training easily in your life.  This is an amazing tool that I found on the internet.  As I expand and grow, I want to accomplish more and easily create organization.  As a result, I searched for some feedback on google on how other people structure and prioritize goals in their lives.  I came across a free website called Goal For It . Even though I have just started to use it.  I am a huge fan!

What you can do on Goal For It with dog training:

Create a list of what you would like to train your dog to do.  Check off what you have accomplished with your dog when the commands are completed.

Create a new Habit.  If training your dog on a routine has been hard for you.  Goal For It has a calendar.  On this calendar you can type in the commands that you want to train your dog and determine which days of the week you want to train them.  You can check them off when you have accomplished them.  There is also a reward-based system set up so you can reward yourself for creating a new habit.

Monitor and accomplish long term goals.  If you are training something intricate such as redirecting aggression, fear, or a command that requires a chain of multiple behaviors this is a great section to use.  On this section you can write what your terminal goal is and the steps that are needed to reach this goal.  You can use a picture to motivate yourself and also have  reward based system set up.  A deadline is possible too.

This program will also send you e-mail reminders if you wish :)

I hope you find this website as helpful as I have.  Check it out and formulate a new dog training habit in your life!

Self Care and Dog Training (Jan 15th)

Huh?  What does self care have to do with dog training?  Everything.  Imagine if never did anything for yourself.  You just got up and took care of your dog.  You never ate, never showered, never went out with friends, etc.  In this extreme of what I wrote you would no long live. You would die.  Many of us do just enough to survive.  When we do just enough to survive we actually die inside.  Frustration, anger and sadness builds as our body is not loved and taken care of.  If we don't take care of ourselves how can we expect ourselves to be grounded and centered when training our dogs?  How can we even expect to make time to train our dogs if we don't even love ourselves?

Everyone has a learning curve on self care and love. My toss for you this week is for you to ask the question "How can I love myself more?"  As you do this notice how your relationship with your dog changes.

Here are some suggestions:

Eat healthy (eat more greens and fruits and less meat)

Exercise (go to the gym or better yet let your dog be your gym... meaning go running with your dog, bike ride with your dog, ski with your dog, etc.)

Keep your house clean.  The energy in your house effects your energy which effects how much energy you have to train your dog :)

Set aside time for just you.  I like to meditate, journal, and sometimes even walk without my dog.

You get the idea. Pick an area and work to create a fun transition with it!

One thing I realized I wanted to do for self-care was exercise more.  I hate going to the gym.  I find running invigorating and fun.  As a result I have started to run and the best part is as I am exercising I can excercise my dog at the same time.  I can also cover much distance faster than when I am walking which allows me to have more time to do other things in my life as well :)

Our body needs to be full of love before we can give away love :)

Hope you put much love into your dog training this week!

Training and Play (Jan 8th)

I find many people separate training and play time.  It is important to include them together.  Your dog will not only work for food but will also work for toys.

There are a few benefits for training your dog during play.  One is that it teaches your dog to control impulses (biting and jumping).  Asking your dog to perform a command during a play session allows your dog to create a pause in play.  Pauses create a time for your dog to relax and decrease arousal ( For those of you that are familiar with calming signals. Pauses are also a calming signal.).  Also when your dog is playing, he is in the primitive / reactive part of the brain.  When you are asking your dog to perform a command, you are switching him from his reactive part of the brain to his cortex / thinking part of the brain. The faster your dog can make these shifts during play the easier it is to manage overall arousal in your dogs life :)

So what does play and obedience trianing look like together?  Here is an example with a game of fetch.

• Ask your dog to down.
• Click when your dog downs. Then immediately throw the ball for your dog to fetch it.
• When your dog brings the ball to you, ask him to drop it.  When he does ask him to target.
• Click when your dog targets (touches your hand on command).  Then immediately throw the ball.
• Repeat the above process with any command: leave it, watch, come, sit, stay etc.  Use different commands rather than the same one every time.
  

The Power of Intention in Dog Training (Dec. 31st)

This weekly tip was inspired from personal experience this week.  My dog, Seiki, has for unknown reasons at the moment developed fear when cars pass him when we are walking on the sidewalk.  Most of the time when I have walked him in the past I walked with the intention of exercise for Seiki and I.  As this new transition arose I noticed it was difficult walking, Seiki and I felt frustrated.  Everytime a car would go by he would become fearful and then would want to run and dart around on his leash.

I began to notice today what my intention had been in the past and realized that I wanted to change my walking intention during this new transition.  My new intention when walking Seiki is now " I am walking to be in the present moment with my dog.  I am also walking to create a positive association with my dog and cars."  With this new intention my frustration was gone.  Our walk was now peaceful.  I did not focus on exercise.  Instead, I focused on the behavior of my dog.  I rewarded him with a special treat every single time a car past by to formulate a new association with cars.  I enjoyed our time together.  Seiki walked nicely on the leash and the darting on the leash was totally gone :)

This week pay attention to the intentions that you create before walking and training your dog.  If your dog barks at other dogs, people, etc. and your intention is to walk for exercise this isn't in alignment with creating a quiet dog.  If your intention is to focus on your dog and to create quiet behavior with stimuli then your results and your emotions will be much more in alignment.

Remember as you and your dog change your intentions will change.

Also, notice your intentions with your dog as you approach the new year!

Happy Training and Happy New Year!

Johanna Teresi, Professional Trainer and Owner of Four Legged Scholars LLC

Training Breaks Can Be Good (Dec. 23rd)

There are many times where I have seen benefits from training breaks (a few weeks to a few months)!  Sometimes not training a behavior for an extended time period can speed up the learning curve in the dog.

I am not exactly sure why this but I remember reading about it years ago and I see it over again.  My dog is a great example his recall ("come") regressed.  We took a break from working on "come" for about 2 months.  He received much exercise in my yard, from training and during on leash walks.  After the break, his recall was 100% at Tanner and at City Creek Canyon even with birds (birds were a number one distraction for him).  My hypothesis is that the dogs have time to actually think about the material (integration time) instead of being constantly bombarded with learning material.

Sometimes a break results in a regression in training.  So how do you know if a break will be beneficial or not?  I have no clear cut answer to this.  Generally when I have taken breaks away from training it was never conscious.  It was a break due to circumstances that appeared in my life.  Then when I got back into training...wow.....progress....just like that!

My insight would be to follow your impulses and intuition.  If you strongly feel pulled to take a break follow that impulse.  If anything if you back track in training your dog will learn it faster the second time around.  Generally impulses and intuition if clearly felt are rarely wrong.

So throw away the guilt about not working with your dog constantly!  Remember breaks can be good!

Also another tip.  You do not have to train your dog everyday for him to learn a behavior or command.  Consistency is the key and daily boundaries.  So many of my clients feel guilty when I show up and they haven't worked enough with their dogs daily.  If you are working on a command 2-3 times a week you will see progress. Short training sessions lasting 2-5 minutes are generally best as well.

Take a break around the holidays and be consistent with your dog!  Have a wonderful time and may your season be filled with love and light!

Happy Holidays!

Johanna Teresi, Professional Trainer and Owner of Four Legged Scholars LLC

Holiday Party Tips (Dec. 18th)

Holidays can be easeful with your dog(s) or very stressful.  Here are some tips to create a more easeful holiday.

1.) First and foremost keep your dogs occupied during this busy part of the season.  If you don't have time to exercise your dogs contact one of the following dog walkers:

Adam 801-828-7200

Kathy 801-503-5256

Portia 801-755-2881

2.)  There are also awesome toys to keep your dog busy that I recommend at Pet Expertise

3.) If you need a break put your dog in his crate with a Kong or bully stick for your dog to chew on.

4.) During parties give each guest a small ziploc bag with some kibble or treats.  Your guests are then instructed to give your dog a treat when he sits.  If your dog jumps, the guests are instructed to turn their backs and ignore him until he sits.

5.) Children should only be with your dog under adult supervision.

6.) Exercise your dog before your guests arrive.  Off leash walk or play is best.

7.) If you are boarding your dog I recommend Animal Medical Clinic in Bountiful .

8.) Give yourself time for just you so that you are not rushing around doing everything for everyone else.  The more relaxed you are the more easeful the holidays will go for you and your dog!

Happy Holidays!

Johanna Teresi, Professional Trainer and Owner of Four Legged Scholars LLC

Knowing What You Want (Dec. 9th)

On Wed Dec 9th I was on a radio show, "Who Let the Dogs Out" with my Life Coach Megan Sillito.  I would love for all of you to listen to it!  Click Here to Listen to the Show.

As I was talking in the show, I realized that I have a formula that I use to help owners create what they want with their dogs. Below are the steps to create what you want with your doggies!

1.) Be clear with your body language.  Some of you have heard of this before and it cannot be told enough.  This is extremely important.

For example: If your dog is about to break a sit stay lean into your dog.  This is telling him not to move forward because you are moving into his space. If you lean back or stand still your dog may still break the stay.

Anther example:  If you want your dog to learn come.  Run away from your dog with your back toward your dog. This is clear body language.  If you run with your front facing your dog then you are saying come to me but don't.

2.) Be confident.  This is created easily by visualizing success.  If you visualize yourself training the behavior you want with confidence, clear communication, and clarity you are increasing great communication to your dog.  If I am your trainer, watch carefully how I train when I am with you.  Now close your eyes and visualize yourself as me training your dog.

3.) Be authentic.  If you feel frustrated, fear, anger, sadness, or any emotion voice it.  Let it out.  Do the same with stories.  If you have a story voice it.  One story might be "My dog won't listen to me".  You might even have a story that your dog only listens at home or that your dog is not smart.  After voicing it (this creates conscious awareness), do one of the following:

• Wonder.  Wondering if this story is possibly untrue.  If you agree that it is untrue recommit.
• Recommit immediately.  Recommit only if it is a "yes" for you to recommit.
  

• creating ease and flow with dog training.
• wondering how to create obedience with my dog.
• allowing my dog to listen to me.
• being clear in my communication so that my dog knows exactly what I want.
  

Introducing Your New Dog to Your Home (Dec. 5th)

When bring a new dog to your home there are some general guidelines that can make the transition more easeful.  Below are some tips!

1.) Take some time off of work.  When you get a new dog you should have plenty of extra time to dedicate to your dog.  Your new dog will be stressed in his new home and will want some time to acclimate to you!

2.) Look for a reward-based dog trainer (Group obedience training is great.).  Four Legged Scholars offers many training programs for all types of income levels.  It is best to have the training lined up BEFORE getting your dog.  Some dogs are great to start training immediately when you get your dog.  Others may do better with some alone time with you first for a few weeks without doing much training.

3.) Be prepared to walk your dog regularly.  Think of ideas BEFORE getting your dog what your walking schedule could look like.  Make it feasible and easy.

4.) Know places to take your dog.  If there are nearby dog parks I recommend you go to them at their least busy times.  Busy dog parks usually result in too much arousal levels and fights can result.

5.) Be ready to schedule a wellness check after receiving your dog to make sure your dog is healthy.  I recommend Animal Medical Clinic.

6.) If changing your dog's diet please do so gradually.

7.) Plan on doing some house training with your dog.  He may not be fully house trained quite yet.  Plan on taking him out every hour on leash and wait for 3-5 minutes.  Click and treat immediately after your dog goes potty.

8.) Dog proof your house BEFORE getting your dog.  Many new dogs will want to chew chew chew.

9.) Have plenty of chew toys for your dog: balls (NOT tennis balls...these are bad for their teeth), bully sticks, nylabones, raw beef soup bones, etc.  There are some awesome toys that I recommend at Pet Expertise.

10.) Crate train your dog immediately.  This is where you will want to put your dog when you are not able to supervise him and will prevent potty accidents and chewing.

11.) Expect that your dog may chew on something or have an accident.  He is in a new place and accidents can and more than likely will happen.

12.) Your dog will probably pull hard on the leash.  I recommend using the Front Hook Harness or the Head Collar.  Stay away from chokers and prong collars. These can cause aggression and damage the esophagus and spinal column.

13.) Create support.  Join my Dog Training and Activities group  and meet other dog people.  If you adopted your dog from a rescue attend their parties and events.

14.) Do things that you enjoy.  Remember owning a dog can be stressful especially during the first few months. Take time for yourself.  Do things you enjoy.

15.) Plan on keeping your dog on leash for awhile.  If he is off leash it should be in a fenced area.  Some rescues never allow adopted dogs to be off leash in an unfenced area.  Make sure you know the rules.  Recall training (training "come") takes time.

15.) Most of all have fun with your new dog!

Best Training Wishes!

Johanna Teresi Professional Owner and Trainer of Four Legged Scholars LLC

Calm Training Tips for Success (Nov 12th)

I wanted to write an overview this week of some broad basic tips to create success indog training:

1.) Be in open space.  This means that you are letting your emotions flow through you rather than exploding your emotions all over your dog.

2.) If you are not creating the results you want and feel frustrated.  Take break.  Breath and fully feel and love the frustration you are feeling.  The more you resist your frustration the more you will create it and the less success you will create.  The more you love it and be in the moment with it the faster it will pass and the faster you will be in open space.

3.) Be consistent.  Do not change the rules on your dog.  Be clear.

4.) Be visually clear.  Your body language is the most important communication to your dog.  If your dog is confused look at how you were moving your body.  Can you think of a clearer way to communicate with your body to create your dog to do what you want?

5.) Use plenty of praise.  When your dog does a great job acknowledge him / her.

6.) Use treats.  Treats are more of a motivator than praise by far.

7.) Use a clicker if you wish.  A clicker speeds up the learning process.

8.) Say your commands only ONE time.  Repeating doesn't usually create success.  Repeating usually creates frustration.

9.) Look at associations.  What happened before and after your dog performed the behavior?  Your dog will do something again if he likes what he is receiving.  Pay attention to pay offs and antecedents.

10.) Stop reprimands.  Yelling at your dog doesn't communicate to him /her what to do.  It increasing negative emotions between you and your dog and decreases success.

11.) Most of all have fun!  If you are not having fun then figure out how to create the training to be fun.

12.) End your training sessions on a positive note the best that you can.  Your dog remembers the first and the last thing of the training session the best.

13.) Create easy approximations.  Allow your dog to be successful.  Take the terminal behavior that you want and break it up into steps.

14.) Focus on the positive.  Remember your dog has a learning curve just as you do.  Success doesn't happen over night.

Happy Training!

Calm Behavior at the Door (Nov 3rd)

Many owners dread it when people knock at their door.  Their dog barks and then immediately jumps all over the visitor when they enter in the house.  Read below and learn some simple solutions to make this transition more easeful.

Have treats, your clicker, and your dog's leash readily available by the door.  When someone knocks at the door, put your dog's leash on and  lure your dog away from the door.  With a treat in your hand move your hand toward your dog's muzzle.  Then guide your dog by moving your hand to the location that you want him to remain. Usually your hand is like a magnet when you have a treat in it.  Choose a location that is out of the visitors path when he enters and a place that is not in the pathway of the opening door.

Next, ask your dog to sit.  Say "sit" then C/T (click and treat).  Repeat this multiple times in a row at a fast rate.  It might be beneficial to have multiple treats in your hand so that your C/T are super quick.  After your dog has been retaining the sit for a few seconds ask the visitor to come inside.  Body block your dog by standing in between the visitor and the dog.  Continue to say "sit" and C/T as the visitor walks inside.  When the visitor is visible this is the hardest time for the dog to retain the sit so once again have a high treat frequency.  I also recommend that you request the visitor to open the door rather than leaving your dog to open the door.

When you are ready to let your dog up say "okay" and he will be free to break the sit.  Repeat the above process multiple times with a variety of visitors.  Once your dog is consistent with holding the sit, you can begin to increase the time interval between the C/T.  Eventually, you will stop using the clicker and switch to random rewards.

For any further explanation contact Four Legged Scholars.

Happy Training!
Johanna Teresi Professional Owner and Trainer for Four Legged Scholars LLC.

Clicker Training (Oct 28th)

There are many aspects to dog training.  The biggest tip I can give you is that dogs learn by association.  If the dog receives something wonderful for a behavior then that behavior is more likely to occur again.  This is called positive reinforcement.  Four Legged Scholars uses Positive Reinforcement dog training.  Positive reinforcement increases the trust bond between you and your dog.

You can also use something that the dog highly dislikes to decrease a behavior.  This technique is not one that I recommend.  It can include shock collars, choke chains, etc.  Anything that causes pain can inflict a huge conflict with your dog.  Your dog could become aggressive or fearful.

I love using clicker training.  This is a form of positive reinforcement.  The clicker marks the behavior and tells the dog that they have done the correct behavior and that a treat is coming.  First you must teach your dog what the clicker means which is called clicker loading.  Click one time and immediately give your dog a treat disregarding any behavior your dog is doing.  Do not practice clicker loading if your dog is performing bad behaviors such as barking or jumping.  Practice clicker loading in a variety of rooms and a variety of different times throughout the day for about 3-7 days.

Once your dog understands that click means treat you can then pair the clicker with a behavior.  For example: when you ask your dog to sit click and treat (C/T).  Now sit will happen again because it was rewarded.

Why clicker training?

• The clicker speeds up the learning process.
• The clicker allows you to mark behaviors that happen quickly.  (For example if your dog is walking on the leash nicely for less than a second you can mark it easily with a clicker.  You probably would miss the reward time with just a treat).
• It is universal so it sounds the same no matter who uses it.  As a result, it is great to use in families.
• It reaches the primitive part of the brain called the amygdala so the dog knows he did the correct behavior without consciously thinking about it.  A verbal word such as "yes" requires conscious thinking.
  

The Emotional Roller Coaster (Oct 28th)

We have two choices with emotions in our lives.  Choice one is to feel our feelings.  Choice two is to repress our feelings.  Today I had an amazing session with Megan Sillito.  The anger I felt today was so intense.  She allowed me to fully feel my emotions with happiness and peace.  It was an amazing reminder that I can choose to feel my emotions without a negative connotation behind them.

I notice I do this more and more.  The more I fully embrace how I feel the more open space is created.  The more authentic relationships I create with my clients and the more present I am in my relationships.

Getting out of my head and into my body can be conflicting at times.  Last week I created a conflict with a close friend of mine as my mind got wrapped around stories and what I wanted to say.  When I chose to really "feel  my feelings" the conflict resolved itself and my friend chose to feel as well.  It was amazing.  I felt more love for her than I ever have.  The connection was one of the soul and was about ultimate truth.

So today I have felt much anger and sadness.  I have chosen to play with it.  As a result, I was so present with my dog client this afternoon it was amazing.  I arrived at my clients house feeling angry.  I chose to breath.  Then when I entered into the house instead of ignoring the anger I chose to be crazy.  I told the dog I felt angry.  I said it multiple times until it past and sadness came. The anger was covering up the sadness.  So I cried and the dog came and laid with me.  It was beautiful.  I realized in that moment that I had chosen so many times to repress my emotions when working with this dog.  I would choose to put on a mask that I was feeling fine on days that I really wasn't.

So today I chose differently.  The bond I created with the dog was so amazing.  When we left for our walk anger arose again so I chose to run and run.  It was so fun to feel my anger while running.  The dog ran with me and enjoyed it so much.  She was so happy.  I was laughing and felt so open.  I shifted to happiness and presence.  We worked on recalls and leash walking.  The session was amazing.  I also noticed the more I allowed myself to be who I was the more I was giving permission to this gorgeous dog to be who she is.

I noticed after I left I felt more sadness. I chose to go home and turn on some sad music and dance.  Seiki, my dog was so happy to dance with me.  We had fun with my sadness.  He loved it and I enjoyed it as well.

So the moral of the story is to feel your feelings.  It does great things to your body.  Most of all it allows you to create open space so that you can create wonderful space for your dog....amazing presence, a soul connection, easeful training, etc.  When you repress emotions training becomes so very very hard.  Create it be easeful.  Use any of the tools I have stated above and most of all have FUN doing it!

Happy Training!

Johanna Teresi, Professional Owner and Trainer of Four Legged Scholars LLC

The Adrenaline Rush (Oct 23rd)

There are so many aspects to dog training that just don't pertain to technique. This week I want to focus on the "drama triangle" and when we are on the drama triangle with our dogs behavioral issues seem to lock in place rather than shift.

Many of you may not be familiar with the drama triangle.  There are three positions on this triangle "victim," "villain," and "hero."  Whenever we are in conflict with money, relationships (including with our dogs), our business, etc. we are on the drama triangle.  The benefits of being on the triangle is an adrenaline rush similar to riding a roller coaster ride.  It actually can be fun for most of us (an addiction)!

When you are training your dog if you are being a hero then your dog has to be a victim or villain.  If you are a victim when training your dog then your dog has to be a hero or a villan.  If you are a villain than your dog has to be victim or a hero.

What does this mean?  A victim generally says  "poor me!"  You could be whining "My dog won't listen to me!"  or " I just can't get my dog to behave!".  A villain is attacking and might say "What is your problem?".  You could say to your dog "You need to listen to me!"  or "You are listening to me because you want to misbehave on purpose!".  A hero generally says "I will save you!".  This could be done when you see your dog reacting "Oh you are scared!  Let me calm you down" or "Let me reassure you so you know all is okay".

All of these methods are away from essence.  When you are training your dog I invite you to check in and notice if you are on the drama triangle.  When you notice you are on the drama triangle you can do one of the following to get back into open space / essence:

• Breath through your belly and choose to shift to love and wonder.
• Breath and move your body (run, dance, or just move any body part easefully).
• Take a training break and play with your dog.
  

Gratitude - Oct 14th

I have a dream.  My dream is a ranch that I own where disabled come to experience love through dance, hypnosis, life coaching, etc.  There are also rescue dogs on this ranch that are yearning for love as well.  The children coming to the ranch experience unconditional love through obedience training and bonding with the dogs.

My life coach, Megan Sillito with Lifeworks Strategies, lead me through an amazing experience last week.  I am in the process of manifesting this ranch.  What I have learned is gratitude for what is now.  As I carry the vibration of love and light that I feel when I am on the ranch right now then the ranch comes easefully.

I want to walk you through a process where you can do the same with your dogs.  It is very powerful in creating the behavior you want and desire.

1.) Think of what you want to create with your dog: walking on a loose leash, sit stay, calm behavior, quiet behavior, relaxed behavior, etc.  whatever it may be.  

2.) Pick an object in your house that resembles this goal.  For me I used a mirror which resembled the ranch.

3.) Place the object on the floor.  Walk away from the object so that you are creating a path toward the object.

4.) Take one step forward focusing on your goal and check into your body.  Notice what you feel and what thoughts come up.  Remain at this step until you are feeling in the moment and present with this step.

5.) Repeat step 4 over and over again until you reach your goal.  Remember to fully settle into each step so that you are not rushing.  Checking in with your body to discover what you might be learning from your body.

6.) Once you reach your goal pick up the object.  Check in with your body and notice what you feel.  Take the feeling into your body fully.

7.) Go back to the beginning of the path and take this body feeling with you.

Remember whatever you are training your dog to do it is learning journey that you have the chose to love or not.  Loving is the fastest way to shift into open space and leaves room for the behavior you want to train to develop faster.

Also notice a feeling of longing, hope and desperation while you are training your dog training creates the process to be hard.  Carry the vibration in your body as if you have reached the dog training goal now:)  This shows much gratitude and appreciation for what you have now.  How fun!

I hope you find this exercise very helpful.  The more I shift into love the more I manifest and create.  I hope you find the same with your dog training.

Best Training Wishes!

Teaching Drop - Oct. 9th

Many times it is easy to just grab something out of your dog's mouth.  This can encourage your dog to bite you and even play keep away.  A much better option is to train your dog to spit things out of his mouth on command with a "drop" command.

• Your dog has a toy show him a treat in your open hand.  As your dog drops the toy say, “drop.”  Then C/T (click and treat).
• Open your hand as if presenting a treat and say “drop.” When your dog drops the toy C/T.
• When your dog has a toy just try saying, “drop.”  If your dog drops the toy then C/T.  If your dog does not drop the toy then present your open hand (just as you did when you had a treat in it) but this time do not have a treat in it.  C/T when your dog drops the toy.
• Eventually your dog should “drop” the object with just the command.
  

Establishing a Great Rapport With Your Dog - Oct. 3rd

I am in the process of becoming a certified NLP Practitioner (NeuroLinguistic Patterning). The process below is used to create open space and to allow solutions to arise when you notice a conflict between you and your dog.

Think of a specific conflict or struggle you are having with your dog. It could be pulling on the leash or not performing some command.

Go back in time so that you are remembering this specific conflict / struggle.

Notice where you would be standing and where your dog would be standing if the conflict were real again. Step into the spot where you would be standing. Take on the emotions and the body posture you were feeling during the time of the conflict.

Shake to move these emotions out of your body.

Step into the space where your dog would be standing. Be your dog. Take on the emotions and the body posture your dog was feeling during the time of the conflict. Notice any communication that may going on inside your dog’s body and mind.

Shake to move these emotions out of your body.

Step into a neutral space. A space where you are the observer. Observe the conflict with no judgment. Notice any information you gather as the observer.

Step back into your space where you were standing during the conflict. Take all of the above information you have gathered and come from a new point of view that is more open and curious. What new information have you learned? How can you apply this new information when you are training your dog again? Use this information to create the result you want in a more fluid manner.

As I am learning more and more with NLP you will see shifts in my training techniques as I create an even greater rapport with my clients and help them establish the same with their dogs.

Happy Training!

Teaching Your Dog to Stay - Sept. 23rd

Recently I have had a few inquires on “sit stay.” Below are some simple steps to teach this wonderful command.

Sit Stay:

• Ask your dog to sit. Take a one step away from your dog and click. Then take a step inward toward your dog and give him a treat. Immediately remind him to “sit” and take step back. Then repeat.
  
  
• When it is time for your dog to get up from the stay walk to either your dog’s left or right side. Then say a release word such as “okay.” As you release the stay walk away from your dog. Do not give your dog a treat after releasing him.
  
  
• Gradually increase the stay time from 1-2 seconds to 3-4 seconds. Then to 5-6 seconds, etc. Practice each time interval at least 5 times before increasing the time period. C/T during this entire time interval.
  
  
• When your dog can hold the sit for 30 seconds begin to use the stay command. Then GRADUALLY increase the staying time to 1 minute. It is important to release your dog from the stay before he releases himself. If he broke the stay then you asked him to stay for too long. The next time you have him stay do the stay for a shorter time period.
  
  • DO NOT INCREASE THE STAYING DISTANCE B/W YOU AND YOUR DOG. WE ARE JUST INCREASING DURATION AT THIS TIME.
    
    
• When your dog will stay with you standing 1 or 2 feet away from him for 1 minute, it is time to gradually increase the staying distance. When you are increasing distance you will decrease the staying time (duration). Always return to your dog when releasing him (Do NOT call your dog to release him).
  
  
• Repeat the same process but stand 4 feet away from the dog. Return to your dog to give treats and remind him to stay after each treat you give your dog. Only expect your dog to stay for 1-5 seconds. Gradually increase the time period to 30 seconds.
  
  
• Now increase your staying distance to 6 feet and repeat “a.”
  
  
• Gradually increase the staying distance until you reach the distance of your choice. 10 feet is great!
  
  
  

Calming Signals as Communication Between Dogs and Humans - Sept. 20th

The last two weekly tips have discussed calming signals between dogs. This week I want to focus on calming signals transferring between dogs and humans.

If you do not remember what calming signals are please see the weekly tips for the past two weeks.

When dogs are stressed they will perform calming signals even when no other dogs are present. For example: If your dog hears a loud sudden noise and becomes startled you may see him perform some calming signals such as lip licking, eye blinking, head turning, etc.

These signals can be used to our advantage. When your dog is stressed and is not performing any calming signals sit next your dog. Remember sitting is a calming signal and start performing some calming signals yourself. The ones that transfer the best from humans to dogs are lip licking, eye blinking and yawning. Eventually you will start to establish a rapport with your dog. Your dog may mirror the same calming signals you are displaying or start performing some other calming signals.

Be patient. It may take 20-30 minutes of recurring calming signals performed by you before your dog really starts to calm down.

Practice these in everyday situations where your dog is somewhat stressed. If your dog is showing extreme stress in any situation please contact Four Legged Scholars. Do NOT submerge your dog into a highly stressed situation and keep him there while you perform calming signals. If your dog is highly stressed a more gradual process will bring better results.

Happy Training!

Knowing When Dog Play is Getting too Rough - Sept 9th

I apologize, I missed the weekly tip last week.  Hoping you were all busy with the holiday and didn't miss it :)

When two dogs play together it can go one of two ways smoothly or not so smoothly.  When play is going smoothly between two or more dogs generally many calming signals are displayed during play.

What are calming signals?
During play these are displayed when the dogs are communicating that they are "only playing."  It is similar to two people wrestling with playful communication rather than aggressive communication.  Also calming signals, calm or relax the dogs.  If arousal levels keep increasing in play, a fight is sure to break out.  By calming themselves down they are preventing the adrenaline from escalating too much.

What do calming signals look like?

Lip licking
Yawning
Shaking
Eye Blinking
Sitting or Downing
Walking Away
Freezing (Very common)
Turning the head to the side
Sniffing
Sneezing

Sometimes these signals may mean something completely different but in play with dogs more than likely they are calming signals.



When one dog displays a calming signal the other dog better mirror that calming signal or display a different calming signal.  If the other dog does not then a fight may arouse. One dog is saying "Stop hitting me for a moment.  I want to take a breath."  If the other dog listens then calmness is created for a second or two.  If not then the dog gets stressed.
Generally during play you will see calming signals every few seconds.  They are fast and short lived at times.  Other times you may see one demonstrated and play completely stops for a while.

A great book to read on calming signals is On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas.

If you have trouble seeing the calming signals.  Tape record the play session and play it back in slow motion.

Happy Training

Peaceful Play Sessions - August 26

Play sessions with dogs can either be very relaxing or very stressful. Below are some guidelines to create easeful play sessions.

• Create your own play sessions in your backyard or your friend's yard.  You can also use a secluded safe fenced area without unknown dogs.  It is much easier to keep the playful session fun and easeful away from the dog parks.  At the parks you are not in control if people are going to bring their aggressive dog into the park.  The larger the pack of dogs the greater the chances of a fight.

• Keep toys away.  Toys are a reason to fight.
  

• Have treats out.  Treats in a treat bag and a clicker.  Intermittently ask the dogs to perform commands during the play sessions such as sit, down, come etc.  C/T (click and treat) when the dog performs.
  

• Keep the numbers low.  Two dogs total is the best place to start. Once your dog listens well with two dogs then you can try three and then four.  Four to five is the max I would recommend.
  

• Have one person present per dog.  If there is a dilemma it is much easier to take control of the situation if one person is in charge of only one dog.
  

• Allow breaks so that the dogs do not become overwhelmed.  They need down time just as humans do.  If they are not choosing to lay down.  Take some time to put the dog in a crate or behind closed doors to allow him to relax / meditate for a little while.
  

• Read the book On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas.  Memorize and learn these calming signals.  If you are not seeing calming signals in play then a fight is likely.  See next week to get a good description of calming signals.
  

• If the dogs are getting over aroused.  It is best to ask them to perform an obedience command such as sit BEFORE a fight arises.  C/T.

• Never force two dogs to play together.  If they don't want to play together do not force it especially if they are not getting along.
  

The most important guideline is to pay attention.  Never leave the dogs alone.  Always have them under supervision where you are watching them and are present with them.

Best Training Wishes!

A What Does Appropriate Socialization (before 4 months of age and preferably before 3 months of age) for Puppies Look Like? - August 21

Expose your Puppy to Many of Each: (Make sure the exposure is positive. You can C/T (click and treat) during any of the introductions listed below)

a.) Surfaces: grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, newspaper, etc.
b.) Different objects: big balls, small balls, frisbees, squeaky toys, cardboard items, metal items, umbrellas, tents, skis, wheel chairs, skate boards, bikes, baby carriages, coats, sunglasses, hats, purses etc.
c.) Locations: friends houses, vet clinics, pet stores, playgrounds, anywhere you can take your dog (Make sure you aren’t going to dog parks and if you go to areas with other dogs carry your puppy).
d.) Actions /Challenges: walking down the stairs, running up a ramp, going through a tunnel, climb over obstacles, etc.
e.) Eat out of different food bowls: metal, plastic, glass, porcelain, plates, etc.
f.) Eaten in different places: backyard, kitchen, living room, etc.
g.) Meet many types of people each week: children, elderly, middle aged, teenagers, black people, white people, skinny people, fat people, children, etc. (Throw a party with many people at your house, sit outside of stores like Smith’s with your puppy, etc.) People is the most important one. 100's of people is best. You can do this easily by throwing low key parties. Standing with your puppy by store entrances and allowing people interact with your puppy.
Your puppy should not be walking in an areas where there is a frequently tracking of dogs (exception puppy class) until your puppy has all of his booster vaccinations (3-4 sets including rabies). Therefore, when you take your dog to the vet, Petco, Petsmart, etc. you should carry your dog.

Your puppy should not go to dog parks until he is at least 6 months of age.

Why Socialize? Socialization is the easiest prevention for anxiety, aggression, and any other behavior problems if it is done positively. Many dogs that develop aggression especially towards men were not socialized enough.

A Story of Love and Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - August 7

This week I felt like being more personable with my training tip. When I was a little girl I began training my dog with a choke chain. I yelled at my dog and used methods that were motivated through pain to get my dog to do what I wanted. I was in Elementary School and Middle School. My 4-H advisor encouraged me to be firm and not use many treats.

I remember feeling frustrated and I noticed that my dog, Heather, a Shetland Sheepdog, didn't even want to "come" to me. She was scared of being yelled at for having a slow recall. In her mind she was getting yelled at for "coming" period. I had much fun with her and in obedience she did great and won ribbons. Emotional wise we were not as connected as we could have been.

When she passed away I felt an emptiness and felt I could have trained her in a more happy and loving way. I was only in middle school. She got hit by a car and the sadness that filled through my body was intense. Subconsciously I felt so guilty for the inhumane methods I used in training her. When I got my next dog I promised to learn more about training with love.

Commitment comes first and then the how shows up. My how showed up when I was at a " show and go" (you practice for shows in a ring and have a judge). My judge was an awesome man and he trained dolphins for Sea World. He changed my life. I was jerking my border collie, Shadow, on the leash every time she pulled. I remember my face lightening up and I felt immense excitement.

I committed to learn about this other method, positive reinforcement. At a young age in early high school I began to study clicker training and training with love. I read and read and attended seminars with many famous dog trainers including Jean Donaldson, Terry Ryan, etc. The first positive reinforcement book I read was Don't Shoot the Dog By Karen Pryor.

I remember struggling with clicker training and nothing working. My dog's attention was everywhere but on me...lol. I read more and learned how to motivate my dog and give her what she wanted for what I wanted her do. Our bond increased and she learned at great speeds. She changed from freezing every time she went into crowds and biting people that came into her territory to loving people. She even got to go to State Fair for obedience showing.

My present dog, Seiki, a dog with a heart so huge that resemembles my love for dogs and their owners learns with leaps and bounds with positive reinforcement.

What is the moral of this story? Love is the answer to everything.

Can you train with shock collars, choke collars, prong collars, Tabasco sauce, yelling, hitting, etc.? The answer is "yes" you can. My response to this is why would you want to? What bond are you creating with your dog when you use these methods? What emotions are you giving off toward your dog? What type of trust bond are you creating with your dog by using these methods? Looking from your own perspective would you rather be motivated through fear or love? What are you doing to your dog's health?

Still confused? Think of a fight. Two people are fighting. It does NOT take two to fight. One person shifts the fight and decides to come from a place a of love. They might say "I hear you are saying.... "I imagine you feel... This is my story...and this is what I feel... I want.... I imagine you want... Let's co-create. I wonder how we can meet both of our wants?" This person who is shifting the fight is going deep. He/She is looking at the soul. What does his/her opponent feel? Now we have a connection. An understanding.

The other side of the story. Two people are fighting. One person yells and the others yells back. The fight continues.

Positive reinforcement with dogs is the same thing. Take the time to understand where your dog is coming from....listen. You are coming from a place of wonder. Now you can reward your dog for what you want him to do instead. As a result, you have formed a huge trust bond. You are connecting to your dog on a soul level. You are understanding that his emotions effect his health and immune system. You understand that your actions give off good energy and balance. Your dog wants to listen to you because he trusts you. He is having fun and so are you!

Why would you ever want to train any other way? The connections we formulate through trust and love are the strongest connections we make in our life whether it be with our spouse, our friends, or our family. Include your dog in this picture as well. Positive reinforcement is the way to go!

Best Training Wishes!!!!

What is the Best Age to Begin Group Classes With My Puppy? - August 1

The answer is 8 weeks of age after their first set of vaccinations. Surprised? Then keep reading.

Puppies are more likely to die (get euthanized) from not being socialized soon enough and developing bad behaviors than from disease from taking a group class.

Your puppy's socialization window is very short. It closes around 3-4 months of age which is also the same age when your puppy will be fully vaccinated.

Waiting until your puppy is fully vaccinated is risky. The socialization window is practically closed and your puppies learning rate has slowed down.

What about disease in group classes?

Disease in group classes is highly unlikely because a professional instructor will keep the room clean and free from disease. If adult dog classes are held in the same room then the adult dogs will be free of disease and vaccinated.

What is the socialization window?

This is the window where your puppy learns what is safe and what is not. Is important for your puppy to be acclimated to a variety of locations, people, dogs, challenges (climbing stairs, going through tunnels etc.), and objects (skis, tents, wheel chairs, etc.). In the wild, wolves need to learn about safety quickly so that they will not get eaten. For dogs as a house pet, this leaves limited time for the owner to socialize their puppy. Many adult dogs are fearful or aggressive of men or are fearful of certain locations. Generally this is due to the lack of socialization this dog received as a puppy before 3 months of age.

They also get to play with other puppies in a group class which allows them to learn how to play appropriately. Many dogs don't know this if they aren't taken to puppy classes soon enough. Bite inhibition is also learned from playing with puppies. If the puppy bites to hard the play session ends. If they do not learn bite inhibition they may be more likely to bite hard if they develop enough frustration or fear to bite as adults.

As a trainer there are two scenarios I see and hear of frequently (over concern or not enough concern):

Not enough concern: The puppy is taken to dog parks at a young age before 6 months. This is dangerous because your puppy is sensitive at this age and if he is attacked by another dog it may affect your puppy for life. Also the chances of disease are high. Any area that has a high track of unvaccinated dogs is risky for your puppy.

Too much concern: People who avoid group classes like the plague with their puppy. The puppy grows up and never received adequate socialization.

What I am noticing for me. My adult obedience classes are easier to fill than my puppy classes. Without many puppies in my classes socialization for puppies is harder. Please spread the word to your friends, family, neighbors, etc. the importance of socialization for puppies at 8 weeks of age. I want my puppy classes to grow and then the puppies will grow up well rounded with less behavior problems.


Upcoming and Current Classes:

• Create an Awesome Come Now. Four Week "Come" Course beginning in August on Saturday mornings. Begin with basics and graduate to more advanced settings including the park. Contact Johanna for further information.
  
  
• Puppy Kindergarten and Elementary Obedience Courses starting today and continuing until the end of the year. Join at anytime. The sooner you join the sooner you create the obedient dog of your dreams!

Advice for On Leash Dogs in Off Leash Parks - July 25

Many people want to walk their dogs on leash at off leash parks. This can work fluidly or be very dangerous.

First of all never have your dog on leash unless you are walking trail such as Tanner Park or City Creek Canyon. A dog park just for socializing is not a time to have your dog on leash.

Go at a time the dog volume is low. At a time that you are unlikely to run into 3-4 dogs in a pack.

If your dog responds well to your commands especially "come" it is better to have him off leash.

When an off leash dog approaches allow your dog to say "hi" with your leash loose. Do not tighten the leash. Tightening the leash increases tensions and increases the chances of a fight.

When an off leash dog approaches you can also lead your dog off of the trail and ask him to sit. Then have him remain in the sit until the dog passes. I do this by saying "sit" then C/T (click and treat). Repeat "sit" C/T many times in a row until the dog passes. If the dog comes up to say "hi" release your dog and stop giving treats and allow him to say "hi."

Remember you are in charge safety. Never walk your aggressive or fearful dog on leash in off leash area without consulting a professional dog training first.

Create a Calm Dog in your Car - July 18

• Does your dog bark in excitement when you are driving in your car?
  
• Does your dog bark at stimuli as cars pass you while you are driving?
  
• Having trouble listening to the radio in the car with your barking dog?
  

Below are some tips to create a more peaceful and quiet car.

• These tips are directed to dogs that get excited in the car.
  
• These tips may work for aggressive dogs as well.
  
• These tips are not for dogs who whine or bark in the car due to fear.
  
• Also these techniques are specifically directed to working and herding breeds such as Border Collies, Heelers, Shetland Sheepdogs, Great Pyrenees, Australian Shepherds, etc.
  
• You may find them to be helpful for other breeds as well :)
  

When there are two people in the car (one person driving and one passenger the passenger). The passenger can C/T (click and treat) when your dog is quiet. It is best to C/T after your dog has been quiet for at least 3 seconds.

Having your dog in a crate can help immensely if your dog runs and barks in the car. This can be common for herding dogs. Give your dog a Kong with almond butter or canned dog food (freezing the Kong is best). You can also C/T when your dog is quiet in his crate if there are two people in the car.

Covering the crate with a sheet can be very helpful. This is very calming for your dog and cuts down on what your dog can see outside of his crate. You can also buy a calming cap and this creates a similar experience: http://www.healthypets.com/premiercap.html

Turn on relaxing music in your car. Classical music is awsome. Also this website: http://www.throughadogsear.com/music_compositions.htm
has music that is designed to help your dog to relax :)

Yelling at your dog will feed the barking and will just increase his arousal level.
For best results use a combination of many of the above methods.

Creating and Peaceful and Quiet House Dog - July 11

• Do you work at home?
  
• Does your dog constantly bark throughout the day?
  
• Having trouble completing tasks due to your barking dog?
  

Below are some tips to create a more peaceful and quiet household.

• These tips are directed to dogs that bark at numerous stimulus outside of your house.
  
• It can be noises or sights (people, other dogs, etc.).
  
• These are directed toward dogs that are nonaggressive.
  
• Also these techniques are specifically directed to working and herding breeds such as Border Collies, Heelers, Shetland
• Sheepdogs, Great Pyrenees, Australian Shepherds, etc.
  
• You may find them to be helpful for other breeds as well :)

First and foremost is to keep your dog indoors. Keeping them outside unsupervised will encourage them to bark more.

Cover your windows with blinds and or drapes. This reduces the amount of stimuli that they will see.

Frequently exercise your dog. If your dog is not exercised then it is difficult for them to be quiet. Their energy level is high and they are on high alert. I recommend exercising your dog at least 2-3 times a day. If you work at home shoot for 3 times a day. Most dogs need to run not walk.

During the exercise routine have your dog perform commands so they get use to switching from their primitive part of their brain to their cortex.

When you have tasks that require quiet time do them immediately after exercising your dog such as talking on the phone.

Bach Flowers can be helpful. Check out www.blumesfarm.com/animals.html. I recommend discussing the best remedy with Christina Blume. However, the "Calming Blend" can help reduce barking.

Crate train your dog. Give him a Kong or something for him to do in the crate that is food oriented and healthy. Put your dog in the crate when you are busy and want quiet time. If you use a Kong put almond butter, canned food, or peanut butter in it and freeze it.

Train your dog LAT (look at that). When your dog barks call him to you. Then have him look at the stimulus that he wants to bark at. As soon as he alerts and is quiet say "Look At That" and C/T (click and treat). Do not C/T if your dog is barking this will reward the barking.

Keep your dog busy throughout the day. Pick up all of his toys and only give him some of his toys. Give him different toys everyday so that you are switching his toys around. Now they have more value.

Have plenty of objects for your dog to chew on and switch these daily as well: Kongs, Bully Sticks, Raw Beef Soup Bones, Cow Hooves, Pig Earz (with a "z"), etc.

Have your dog participate in fun games: Kibble Toss (toss his food in the yard or in the entire house and have him go and find it to eat it), put his food in a muffin tin and cover with tennis balls (your dog has to remove the balls to eat his food), buy a buster cube (put food in this cube and your dog has to push it around to get treats out), hide his food / treats around the house and have him go find it, etc.

Buy a DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) plug in. The mother gives this pheromone off to her young and it calms the puppies. It works great on adult dogs as well :)

Most importantly train your dog. Train him obedience commands and train him tricks. Do this in a positive fashion by motivating through love rather than through fear. With love as a motivator your dog will be more calm.

Meditate yourself and meditate with your dog :)

Join a dog sport. Sometimes this increases barking and sometimes not. If you have a barking issue teach your dog to be quiet during the sport if possible for best results. LAT works great :)

For best results use a combination of many of the above methods.

Acclimating Your Dog To His Crate - July 7

First of all if you dog has separation anxiety then crate training may not be the answer. Please contact Four Legged Scholars for more information on this :)

Here are some great ways to acclimate your dog to his crate.

First place your dog's meals in his crate so he has to go into it to eat. If he still won't go in and eat then place the bowl close to the door entrance and move it back a few inches every couple of days.

Also behavior catching works well. Leave your crate door open and C/T (click and treat) everytime he walks into his crate on his own. It is best if you are able to give him the treat while he is still in the crate. If you miss the opportunity to feed him while he is in the crate make sure your timing with the click is accurate and occurs when your dog is inside the crate and not when he is outside of the crate.

Once your dog readily goes into the crate, give him a food oriented toy (kong with almond butter or peanut butter, bully stick, cow hoof with peanut butter or almond butter, raw beef soup bone) to chew on. Give it to your dog when he walks into the crate voluntarily. Then shut the door for about a minute. Open the door and take away the toy. Next time have your dog be in the crate for 2 minutes. Then 3 minutes, etc. Repeat this process. If your dog is calm and loving the toy you may be able to jump in 2-5 minute intervals instead of 1 minute ones.

It is a good idea to make the crate comfortable and have a blanket in the crate with your dog and to always have a food oriented toy with your dog inside the crate. Feeding your dog meals in the crate can occur for many months to forever. This creates a positive association with the crate.

Best Training Wishes!!!!

More Leash Walking Devices for Leash Pullers - June 27

Some of you might have heard of these devices and they are awesome :)

The first one is called the Front Hook Harness.
There are many companies that sell these. One brand is the "Easy Walk Harness." Another is the "Halti Harness." My favorite is made by soft touch concepts and they are called "Sensation Harness".

The leash hooks on the front the dog (not on the dog's back) and when the dog pulls it throws the dog off balance just a little bit so that it is uncomfortable for the dog to pull. Some dogs immediately stop pulling when these are used and it is much easier on the owner's the arms and shoulders if the dog does pull.

The second one is called the Head Collar.
There are many companies that sell these as well. One brand is the "Gentle Leader." Another is the "Halti Head Collar." My favorite brand is the "Comfort Head Collar."

This collar goes behind the dog's ears and around the dog's muzzle. When the dog pulls gentle pressure is created on the dog's muzzle and generally the dogs stop pulling with training. This collar requires an acclimation period and is not recommended for labs. It is important to follow the directions on how to train and use this collar. If your dog pulls quickly and hard when wearing this collar he can break his neck.

I use the comfort head collar on my dog and absolutely love it :)

I sell both the front Hook Harness by Soft Touch and the Comfort Head Collar. If you are interested please contact me and I am more than happy to sell you one and instruct you on the proper use.

If you use either apparatus in conjunction with good training then you don't have to use them forever. Eventually, your dog will be able to walk on a normal flat buckle collar.

A Great Apparatus for Leash Pullers - June 20

Please feel free to submit training questions.  Your question maybe answered in a weekly dog training tip! 

Yesterday I remembered the wacky walker leash and walked my dog, Seiki on it for the first time. It was great. It was much hard for him to pull and I had a blast. He just wasn't able to pull. This leash is not for lunging dogs or for dogs who get overexcited on the leash. It is great for moderate or minor leash pullers.

The leash is similar to a bungee cord. When your dog pulls on the leash the leash stretches and eventually the pressure becomes strong and the dog cannot keep going forward. The leash actually gently guides your dog back so that there is no leash tension.

Also when your dog pulls there is no jerking on your arm.

I strongly advise the following when using this apparatus:

• Always hold the end of the leash. Do not shorten the leash.
  
• When your dog pulls stop walking. C/T (click and treat) when your dog looks back at you and is no longer pulling. Then start walking again.
  
• Say "easy" and C/T when your dog is walking nicely on the leash and not pulling.
  

Once again this leash is not for strong pullers or for dogs that lunge. Because the leash extends when a dog pulls the dog can be flipped on his back if he pulls too much on the leash. This is very unlikely for moderate or minor leash pullers. Also the leash does put pressure on the collar when the dog pulls so for extreme pullers it will be too hard on the neck.

Contact me for my questions or how to use the leash or for a wacky walker lesson.

You can buy the leash at WackyWalker.com

Not In There, Please! - June 13

Please feel free to submit training questions.  Your question maybe answered in a weekly dog training tip! 

Are there certain locations / rooms that you would prefer your dog to not venture into ... the basement, the living, or the kitchen, etc.?
 
You can train your dog to stay out of certain rooms and locations.
 
The first step is management.  It is important to have the door closed or some blockade up that prevents your dog from entering into that location / room.  Some examples are a dog gate, boxes, a board cut to fit the length to the room's entrance.
 
Management allows your dog to not develop a bad habit of going into that room when you are not training him.
 
The next step is to set up training sessions.  Have many treats and a clicker.  Walk a foot into the forbidden room.  C/T (click and treat) if your dog did not follow you into the room.  Walk up to your dog to give him a treat or throw him a few treats on the floor in the room he is allowed to be in. 
 
If you dog begins to follows you into the forbidden room body block him.  This means you walk into your dog a bit.  You are not pushing your dog or hitting him.  Actually you aren't really touching him at all.  You are just moving into your dog's space.  Your dog should back up and go back into the allowed room.
 
Repeat this step multiple times until your dog is reliably staying in the allowed room (s).
 
Next, repeat the above steps and walk 2 feet into the forbidden room.  Then repeat the steps again walking 3 feet into the room, then 4 feet, etc.
 
Once you can walk all the way into the room without your dog following you, begin increasing the duration he needs to stay out of the forbidden room.  Use a stop watch or a second hand and gradually increase the time frame that your needs to remain out of the forbidden room with you in the forbidden room.  Give your dog treats at the end of the each time frame.  Eventually, your dog should choose to lay down somewhere else and be happy to stay in the allowed rooms.
 
Happy Training!